Paris has simply bid farewell to one of many greats. Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has proven his remaining assortment on the helm of his eponymous label, staging a powerful runway worthy of the event.
Dries Van Noten’s remaining assortment was a journey by time, recalling the previous 38 years filled with influential design. Hundreds of friends had been led to the Parisian outskirts to a graffiti-covered warehouse fitted with a central dice sculpture. The determine was mirrored with Van Noten’s earlier collections, showcasing essentially the most impactful moments of his profession.
An hour-long reception excited friends as feelings ran excessive in anticipation for his remaining bow. Curtains unexpectedly lifted to disclose an expansive foil runway as friends took their seats to watch a historic second in vogue historical past. Spring/Summer 2025 consisted of 69 menswear appears to be like, with 12 worn by ladies — an homage to the flexibility and love shared for the model by all. A novel speech by David Bowie took over the room, accompanying the primary look worn by Alain Gossuin — who appeared in Dries Van Noten’s inaugural showcase in 1991. A double-breasted tailor-made coat drenched his physique elegantly, accomplished with khaki trousers and open-toed sandals.
“And all at once, the outward appearance of meaning is transcended, and you find yourself struggling to comprehend a deep and formidable mystery.” The phrases echoed throughout the venue in tribute to Van Noten’s boundary-breaking legacy. A pinstriped blazer with popped collars made up the re-evaluation with sheer bottoms, whereas glitter-fused mock necks, strong-shouldered outerwear, and shiny coated coats made their method down the runway subsequent. The mannequin casting included dozens of beloved names who had walked in earlier Van Noten runways and celebrated the model’s lifespan alongside Debra Shaw, Kristin Owen, Karen Elson, and extra.
The pristine assortment continued down the metallic runway, marking Van Noten’s a hundred and fiftieth assortment for the House. Transcending house and time, clothes mirrored up to date magnificence with a watch for subtly seen in embroidered sleeveless tops, outsized shorts, and military-style jackets. Japanese “floating ink” methods — suminagashi — ran throughout cropped bomber jackets, blazers, and hooded anoraks in shimmering gold, seeing the designer draw inspiration from Belgian artist Edith Dekyndt. His manipulation of acquainted entities guided the present underneath an modern mild, seeing unusual tank tops shine in purple velour or knee-length trench coats land in luxurious organza. Neutral hues transitioned into daring pastels, overwhelming mohair automobile coats, and textured cardigans in pink, inexperienced, and orange. The designer’s signature prints closed the gathering in model, seeing compact flowers and crops brighten crinkled polyamide-trimmed appears to be like impressed by shattering glass.
As the runway drew to an in depth, fashions stormed the runway with encouraging applause and ignited an intensive standing ovation. Van Noten appeared to take his remaining bow, waving on the crowd, who had tears of their eyes — saying goodbye to a legend who will at all times be remembered.
Take a better have a look at Dries Van Noten’s SS25 assortment within the gallery above, and keep tuned for extra Paris Fashion Week content material on Hypebeast.…Read more by Chang
